Slightly Rattled


We're climbing at the cliffs of Tieton outside of Yakima, Washington. As you've already picked up from the title. I am with a very intelligent and very pretty group of trad rad girls with names that read like a horticulturist's guide to Ireland: Heather, Lilly, Brittany, Stephanie. And myself. A weekend of camping, ropes, blue sky, dessert, rocks.  And rattlesnakes.


It was late in the afternoon on Sunday, and the last climb of the day was really stumping me. Below, Heather had me on belay from a little ledge above the path. You had to boulder up a bit just to get on the ledge, and it was a very small area, only three square feet or so, just big enough two of us.

I was wholly fixated on my body pressed up against the slightly inverted wall, fingers digging onto a crack the width of three playing cards. (This is an exaggeration, but it was a difficult hold regardless.) Just one inch higher and I'd have a little more stability, but I couldn't seem to get there. Beneath me, I heard Brittany walking briskly up the trail. Then she stopped short. "Okay," she said, "Heather don't move. Melina, you're fine. And Heather, you're okay too but- oh shit- it's big-"

I smeared at the wall with a toe. The strength was quickly draining out of my arms. I had the feeling I shouldn't look down.

Then I heard Heather say in a tightly controlled voice, "Oh shit. That's big. Oh wow."

I fell off the rock and the rope caught me. I pushed off the wall with my feet and spun around. There was a rattlesnake, a thick, long black hose slithering around below the coiled pile of rope on the trail. 

This was the 8th snake we had seen over the course of the weekend. We had become afraid to walk into the brush or off of the trail at all, which made going to the bathroom either a dangerous endeavor or a very public endeavor. Earlier that morning, Steph had taken three steps off the trail and walked smack into a snake, which tightened up and rattled so loudly we all heard it, and dropped racks of metal cams, carabiners and half eaten power bars to the dirt as we scampered away.

But now here we were, and two out of three of us couldn't run away.

 "Okay," said Brittany, sounding not nearly as concerned as I thought she ought to, "now it's- it's climbing up the rope." Sure enough, the smooth black snake was moving slowly up the rope, it's great head nearly on the ledge where Heather was standing. Since Heather was on belay, she couldn't move. And she wasn't getting off belay until I came down off the rock. She could have easily lowered me, but but between herself and the snake there was no room for me on the ledge. And all the books say it's bad form to lower someone on top of an unsuspecting a rattlesnake. Rattlesnakes don't appreciate surprises that way we girls do.

Stuck there as we were, this is a situation we referrer to as a real pickle.

Five days. Five days in the ICU, I thought to myself, remembering a girl who once worked for New River who was bit by a rattler in the New River Gorge. I knew of someone else who had been chomped, made it to the hospital in good time, but the ER didn't have the antivirals because 'rattlesnake bites are so rare'.

With no other idea of what to do, we treated the snake the way you treat bears in the back country. We started singing at the top of our lungs. Our voices rang out across the weird, wide open country of Eastern Washington. I directed my voice at the rock because it was too eery to watch the snake. I squeezed my eyes shut tight and wondered what we would do if Heather was bitten.

No doubt I would pull my pocket knife out of my pocket, slash the rope connecting us, down climb, and hack the snake to pieces.

Then, I'd pick her up in my arms and- forsaking all our ropes and gear, run down the steep, unstable trail to my car. From there I'd whisk her away to the nearest hospital, talking in that soothing tone I've learned in my Doula Workshop. Your Cervix is a flower blooming. Is what I'd say.

After she was  in the capable hands of the doctor, only then would I return to the cliff. It would be dark by then. I'd hike up solo, brandishing my knife. I'd collect all our gear in a pile. Then I'd find the pieces of the snake I'd sliced to death. I'd cut off the rattler and keep it as a prize.

Thankfully, the snake slithered away, and it didn't come to that.

Kick Me, I'm Awake


Saturday in the still sunny city.  Every sunny moment in Seattle, towards the middle of October, is like a perfect moment in the arms of a gorgeous man, your cheek nestled onto on his broad, fleece-vested chest. He's stroking your perfectly straight, Brazilian-blown out hair with a calloused hand and every now and then he kisses you on the head, absentmindedly. But beneath that heartbreakingly perfect exterior, he's a fickle, unreliable jerk-off and you know it. But he's made it abundantly, shamelessly clear that at any moment he will run off and leave you.  For a long, long time. For six months even. Because the rumors are very, very true: Seattle really is a grey, wet, sunless, miserable city for the majority of the year, and that time of year is starting....any....day....now.....


Saturday morning did not come easy for me. Seth had to be driven off in Wallingford at like, 7 am, (I wasn't aware the city was even turned on at 7am on a Saturday.) So I brought him to the house of his brother. Ben. Ben is also a good friend. He's also the worst person I've ever dated. Ever. Sorry, man, but you know it's true.

I'm horrible, horrible, just a terrible person in the mornings. In my defense, it's only because I feel so sad, so miserable, so nauseatingly unhappy about leaving my warm nest of blankets and dreams and joining the cold, alienating, soul stifling parade of life that on most mornings I'd rather die than get up. I'm serious. And I feel this way even in the very best of circumstances. The only way for someone to successfully rouse me is if they climb on top of my bed and kick me and kick me and kick me until I'm on the floor, and bruised.

It's less than ideal.

People always used to tell me, in this gross smarmy way that I hated, "Oh, just wait till you get a dog. My dog wakes me up at 6:00am every day." Eat it, smarmsters. I found Hometeam, my soul-dog, and it's impossible to wake her up before 11:00am. You could stand above her, bang on a pot with a rawhide bone and scream "BIG STEAK! BIG STEAK! BIG STEAK! ALL YOURS" And I swear to god she'll bury herself deeper into the comforter and punish you for the disturbance by being frosty all day.  My god, she's an angel of a dog.

So anyway, the worst part of the morning (of my life, really) is the initial extraction of me from my bed. Once that's done I'm usually okay. So as I drove through the delicate light of a clear, refreshingly cold morning playing the CD Seth made for me ("Songs For Hometeam", with a photo of her nose stamped onto the CD) I started to feel good. Great, actually. "Let's get some coffee!" I said, "I'm so awake now, wow- WOW! This feels awesome!" If I stayed awake, there would be so many hours in the day! Twice what I'm used to. I could get so much accomplished! I could be bilingual by nightfall! There were so many hours in the day! Carpe diem.

 Seth, still scarred from having to wake me, was made uncomfortable by my sudden mood shift. "Um, yeah- you know what? You can just drop me off here-"
"Where?"
"Here- anywhere. Anywhere is fine just let me out."

I turned the car around, headed back to my house whistling, fell into bed and slept till noon. The only reason I got up at all was because I had made plans with Kendra to have breakfast in capitol hill. Which of course I just steamrolled right through. But, having known me since I was eight, Kendra knew that 'breakfast' for me means 'lunch' for most people.

I'd like to thank Kendra for existing, and also the Hopvine Pub for whatever it is that they put in their Harvest Pumpkin Soup. Bacon, cheese, whatever, it was a good reason to stay alive.


Having been properly revived, I climbed for the rest of the day with Seth at Stone Gardens, that plastic cathedral of strength and chalk and pheromones. A place where, even in the worst of weather you can....wear as little as you want. Can I get an Amen for my favorite climbing gym this side of the Mississippi!

"But Melina," you say, "that place is full of shirtless assholes trying to impress each other and themselves. It's like the epicenter of egomaniac rock climbing masturbation. And it's expensive."

And to you, authentic and well meaning outdoors person, I say, hey, I used to be just like you. I climbed there rarely and only after much complaining. Head down, headphones glued to my ears, loathe to be part of the spectacle. But then- something happened. What was it? I don't know. What prompted that first ambitious, self confident swimmy thing to try and slither out of the primordial soup and onto the shore? I evolved. One day I just whipped off my Regulatory 1 Long sleeve Patagonia Baselayer and bared the tight Prana halter beneath. I threw my hair into a suitably messy pony tail and tackled that V-2 like it was a V-12. Then I stood back, scrunched my face up into a thoughtful expression, put my hands in front of my face as if visualizing how to overcome the crux, and said something to myself -but audible- about 'pump' and 'slope' and 'sweet.' The boys and girls around me glanced my way, gave me a quick once-over, then nodded their appreciation.

And just like that, I crossed over.

It's not about being the most serious climber or the prettiest climber. It's about pretending to be those things.

And I'm going to need the gym and its promises of toning and firming more than ever right now, because it is Restaurant Week in Seattle! That unbelievable time in Autumn where all the fancy restaurants in the city offer a 5 course meal for 25 bucks. Dessert included. And you've probably guessed by now, but I'm the type of gal who straight up lives for restaurant week. Because part of being a serious, ambitious, and confident person is knowing how to eat in a serious, ambitious, and confident way.

First stop: Emmer and Rye on Queen Anne. Monday night. Stay tuned. I hope you had a great weekend.

The Weekend Pacifist


The end of a long, busy week. The eye of the world has been focused on a piece of cold desert in South America, where just hours ago the Phoenix wrenched the last of the Chilean miners back onto the surface of the earth. At about the same time, David boarded a plane to Chile for six months, if not forever, loaded with creek boats, mountain bikes, and five thousand dollars worth of camera equipment that someone on the airline would steal somewhere during between Dallas and Santiago.

It wasn't too long ago that David offered me a life in Chile. "Six months in Pucon, six months wherever you want. Vermont, Seattle, absolutely anywhere." He'd said. I could write down there, teach at the school, lead the gap year program, be the host at the Pucon Kayak Hostel that he owns on the banks of the Rio Trancura. Run the Palguin in the afternoons, drink Piscos at Mamas y Tapas every night with the rest of the white guy paddlers down there. Live a dream life. Somebody's dream life.

But not mine apparently. I decided I was too young to lock down my life in one particular place, with one particular person, doing one particular thing. It was all laid out before me and I could have reached out my hand and claimed it, just like that. But I didn't. I wanted to go back to Seattle, be alone, and figure it all out by myself. Sort of a toss my self out there and see where I'd land situation.

It wasn't until the mine collapsed on 31 Chileans (and one Bolivian) and that one particularly beautiful, heart-wrenching country became ubiquitous in the news, that I started to realize how much I miss it. How much I want to go back.  I have dreams about the restaurant at Cascadas des las Animas over the Maipo river, and I'm wearing silver and leather and bronze.

But here I am in Seattle, wearing work clothes, and it's almost midnight. I glance at the ink-darkened calendar that hangs on my wall and make a decision. For the first time since I moved back to Seattle, I opted to stay in the city for the weekend. No packing, no traffic, no planning, no sleeping bag, no cliffs, no ocean. I decided to just relax and let the city swirl around me. Even though it was the annual Qunault mushroom festival up in the Ho rain forest that I've gone to for years with Ammen and Steph....I decided to just stay in. ( Also, I've learned recently, I'm just not that interested in mushrooms. Strange.) For whatever reason, I craved two whole days in the city, with no plans, and no idea where I'd end up.

And so on Friday night, I wound up in Ballard in the gleaming, immaculate, cherry-floored home of an ER doctor and his alcohol-wielding vodka rep friend.  Michelle was cooking enchiladas with cocoa powder and we were all celebrating.  Michelle had just passed the bar exam was leaving the next day for Mexico for six weeks. And when she gets back, she's moving to Revelstoke. For good. To run around in the Canadian mountains for the rest of her life. Which is too bad, because it's not anyone who will say, "Sure, why not" when I invite them- totally out of the blue- to spend the week with me up on the Ottawa river.

Lisa just got a grant from the city to go forward with her Go Girl Go initiative to bring The Light of ultimate  Frisbee to kids with less money than the normal Frisbee playing kids. And she plays on Riot, who just claimed the #1 seed in the nation and are heading to Nationals in a week. She's one of those wholly 'together' people who always has cause to enjoy a good, celebratory  midori sour.
 
And me? I got a new lens, baby! A super fast lens that fulfills exactly 1/3 of the photography chamber in my diagram of heart's desires.  (A Zoom and  Fish eye would make me whole, in case you're making a list of presents you want to buy for me.) It's no secret that I couldn't afford this lens. I didn't buy it. It was given to me. By this wonderful, benevolent friend who knows what a difference a super fast shutter speed and a wide open aperture will make.

 Also, I was celebrating the successful sold out climbing film festival that I MC-ed with my friend Natalie. That I can now check off of my list of life's goal the one that says: Stand up in front of a packed movie theater and shout "WHAT'S UP SEATTLE!!!!" into a microphone.  And I'll throw in this- the fact that I have figured out a good balance of work, money, climbing, writing. It won't last forever but fuck it. It works for now and this weekend, I'm celebrating.
Anyway, it's not like we need a reason to enjoy ourselves. The very face that I was in Ballard, my favorite neighborhood in Seattle, was reason enough. So what if its fishermen's wharf atmosphere and quirky Norwegian roots had been severed by the pale hand of gentrification (they leveled the bowling alley for luxury condos- what the hell, people!)- it's still Ballard. It's still got the Locks, bonfires on Golden Gardens (if you can fight your way through the crowds on any given evening to claim one, but I'm not above throwing a few 'bows,) and stone gardens and Miro tea house with it's mango Bavarian cheesecake.

Also, I'm out with friends. Girl friends. And as much as I miss traveling, Chile, and the boys, I was often really lonely over there.  I used to download sex and the city episodes onto my ipod and straight up horde them. If I could have taken them intravenously, I would have. I'd lie in my tent and stare at the glowing, one inch by one inch screen. Then someone zip open the tent fly, stick their head in and shout "Hey you want to come sit by the fire and sing songs with Chilean cowboys and have a genuine cultural experience?" And I'd shout back "NO! GO AWAY!! DO NOT BOTHER ME!"  Those were good times. And while you'll never hear me breathe a word against Sex and The City, there's something to be said about having real, flesh and blood girl friends.


All I'm saying is, right now I'm appreciating all the little things that we do together, like trying to decipher the illogical and vague texts from those of the opposite gender. Pure poetry for someone whose lived with only boys for the past two years. 

Lisa and I both had early Saturday mornings so we took off, saying goodbye to Michelle. While in Mexico, she's doing this beach side yoga teacher certification program. She'll be returning tanned, (more) blond, strong, fit, and 'centered'. Fear it. Lisa and I will be in the beginning phases of our pale and sedentary Seattle winter. For obvious reasons, we won't be willing to be in the same room as Michelle for a good few months. And so we said goodbye. And Good luck. Show those boys mercy.

 Lis and I were planning on heading home, we really were, but just after we left, we got a phone call from Seth who was up from Oregon just for the weekend.  And he happened to be near Capitol Hill, and it turned out that Kendra was also in capitol hill. And so it came to pass that nearing midnight on a Friday night, we  were walking down the busy streets around Broadway, on our way to the Elysian brewery.

If you're not from Seattle, then I'll have you know that Capitol Hill is the most happening neighborhood in Seattle. It's perched right above downtown. It's where all the gay bars are. It scared the crap out of me when I first went there, seventeen years old,  via the #44 bus. I was on an innocent outing to buy a butterfly chair for my dorm room. I saw a woman with a purse shaped like a coffin and man leading another man on a leash. On the way home, a man sat next to me on the bus with a profusely bleeding head wound. I remember I was wearing sweat pants and a grey American eagle tank top and feeling like the most boring person on the face of the earth. Also, I was terrified. This place is hopping

One moment, around the time the waitress came around for the third time with more pint glasses of beer, it dawned on me that everyone sitting around the table had visited me in Vermont.  Obviously Kendra- she and I grew up together there. And Lisa, a native Seattlite, had flown 3,000 miles in the dead of winter to watch Obama get sworn into office.  And Seth had biked 3,000 miles for me to cook him chicken pot pie in my red basement kitchen. It's a good table to be sitting at where everyone has visited you in your childhood home, in a state so far that some people still thinks it's in Canada. 


By the time I had made it back to Lake City, which is nearby to nothing, tucked Seth away on the couch and fallen into bed, it was very early morning. And there were two entire days hovering before me with absolutely  nothing planned. Brilliant.

Facing East

One more announcement before we return to normal programming. This video, Facing East, won first prize in the International Reel Paddling Film Festival. It was co-directed and filmed in part by Tino Specht, my wildly handsome and unreasonably talented friend and New River Academy co-worker. It's playing TODAY at 12:30 pacific time, and also on the 16th at 8:30.


Facing East [NBC Universal Sports AD] from Vital Films on Vimeo.

Tino- I'm so so so proud of you. NBC Universal is broadcasting your movie! You're on TV, motherfucker! Hell yeah!

Have we lost our minds out here?

I'm sitting at a table with my sister and Ben.  The table is outside in a courtyard, in some sunny place surrounded by white alpine mountains. "So? What's it like over there?" I ask, impatient.

Ben looks at Anna and laughs.  "Your sister and I were just talking about how we knew you'd ask that right away."

I give a little pretend pout. "Well of course I'd ask that first. How could I not ask that?"

Ben is glowing around the edges a bit just like you'd expect. Back lit from the sun.  Calm and whole and so happy. He's very pale and the first few buttons on his shirt are undone. He's leaning back and beaming at us. He knows the punchline of some great joke and he's really going to draw it out.

"The food is good there," he says, teasing me.

"I can see that. You look really healthy. Your skin-" I reach my hand out and run it against his face. It's warm and hard and smooth. "Your skin is perfect. But it almost looks like it's made out of marble."

I settle back in my chair with this beautiful peaceful feeling. The clear light and the warmth and the mountains run together. Sitting around this table, we're in this blissful circle that feels totally different than anything I've felt in my real life.

Now we're walking down a trail that runs alongside one of the mountains. I'm leading the way. "Please, come on, tell me more about what it's like." I turn around to look at him, walking backwards.

He is smiling in such a way, if it didn't know any better I would swear he was flirting. "Well, let's put it this way. I'm not alone over there."

I wake up suddenly in my dark bedroom. I've sweat through the sheets again.  And I'm crying. I try and force myself back asleep, but all I can do is cry and cry and cry.

Smash Cut to the Update

Well, you can't buy tickets for the Reel Rock Climbing Film tour anymore cause they're done sold out. Which is crazy because the Egyptian Theater on Capitol Hill ain't small.


But you can still help me win a writing grant by 'saving' my trips on Trazzler. Just click here to find a list of my trips, click on any one of them and hit 'save'. Then do it for all of them. And consider your good deed done for the day. Thank you! I love you! 


Reel Rock Film Tour


If you live in Washington, come check out the Reel Rock Film Tour on its stop in Seattle. It's playing at 7pm at the Egyptian Theater. Buy your tickets at Vertical World or Second Ascent in Ballard.

This is a bad ass adventure film competition with lots of giveaways and raffles included, but really you ought to come for the audience who are bound to be ruggedly good looking.

BUT REALLY you ought to come for the fiery, funny, wise cracking, illuminating, intelligent, and good looking presenters: myself and Natalie Stone.  We WILL be accepting drinks afterward.

This will probably sell out so go by yourself a ticket. And find all the info you need by clicking here.

My Great Big Airplane Idea

Embracing Couple

I have this great idea that I am going to sell to the airlines industry.

I think the airlines should separate the single passengers from the married or otherwise unavailable passengers. This could be done with a simple questionnaire on the online ticket booking site.

The coupled people can sit in the back of the airplane, where they can be content keeping to themselves, or complaining to one another about those couple complaints that no single person can stomach listening to. And us single people can sit up front and mingle.

During turbulence, the coupled people will be forced to sit in their seats with their seat belts tightly fastened, while the singles will be encouraged to move freely about the cabin: Bump! Whoops! Sorry, I landed in your- why, hello. Hello hello.

There will be a third section of the airplane available for those unfortunate people who are unable to classify themselves. Not quite single. Not quite anchored in a relationship. An open relationship, not sure if it's going anywhere. Recently broken up with and 'not ready to move on.' Those people can sit in the middle of the airplane. Nobody cares whether or not they fasten their seat belts. Nobody offers them peanuts or complimentary soft drinks. Those people are used to getting ignored, and nobody's going to complain.

I must be honest, that is a terrible place to sit. For the betterment of everybody, I reccomend defining yourself one way or the other. Remember during your next conversation with your maybe-maybe-not-significant other, that the middle of the plane is where the plane is going to split apart (because of the wings) in the event that the plane goes down. Your chances of survival are much much higher if you're sitting nicely in the front or back of the vessel. Something to keep in mind.

Help me win a writing grant!


I'm applying for a Northwest Writing Grant through a travel site called Trazzler . Part of the judging process is how many people show interest in my trip reports.  You can help me out SO much by doing this easy thing:

Check out my really short reviews of cool things to do in Seattle by clicking here.

All you have to do is open the different reviews, hit "save" and follow the directions. Really easy.  I'm not a big fan of applications asking you to bug your friends, but this would be a huge! Thank you! Thank you ! Thank you!

(PS by the way, when you 'like' the posts, I can see you who you are, and I'm really good with saying Thank you in creative ways.)

The Wilder Coast Turns Two!


The Wilder Coast turned TWO a few weeks ago but I was too busy to notice. Last year I commemorated the first year with a little birthday post. At that point, TWC had 109 posts and been viewed by 4,742 people in over 23 countries.

One year later, TWC is now at 365 posts. It has been viewed by over 37,000 people in over 100 countries.  We (the writing team and the photography team, aka me and me) think that's some serious growth! Thank you for reading, thank you for commenting, and thank you for donating. If you were not reading, I would not be writing, and if I wasn't writing this, I really wouldn't be a writer.

So celebrate with me by checking out this year in review, with links to some of the year's most popular posts . And thank you for reading. 

When it began, I was in Patagonia...
I had that dream job over in Chile. I was a bad ass kayaker. Or at least it appeared as such. I went Chilean Creeking, and Kayak Surfing and River running and was always running around sunburnt, exhausted and doing dangerous things. I found myself, somehow, at the epicenter of the kayaking world in Pucon, Chile, wondering whether or not I should fall down the rabbit hole of the paddler identity.  And I was dating my boss, David, he was much older than me and I loved him very, very much. But I never wrote about it. I was rejected by a mormon missioniary, and we stumbled upon one of the most evil places on the planet and found a waterfall there which turned Tino on his head. I was in Chile for a few months,  and I fell down the stairs in front of Lorenzo, and I started missing a normal life and I slept with a bag of coffee.

My blog got a little more interesting because I got a new Ipod with a video camera in it and took and posted all sorts of videos. But the stress of the job got to me, I suppose, and I had a lot of terrible migraines. I left Dave in Chile and I left my friends behind and I left my job.

So I Started Over and Moved to North Carolina
I fell completely in love with a boy I met on the Grand Canyon years earlier. And I moved to boone to be with him. And my very first day there  I met a Legend which was really a good sign.  For once I had a boyfriend on valentines day and I tried my hand at domesticity. And things were luminous,  life was so good. But I still got a lot of migraines. Which made things complicated. And I thought and wrote a lot about being young and broke and happy and constantly worried about everything, but  I had a good time anway. I started being a little more honest with those  ambivalent feelings that everybody relates so. From these posts I got a lot of feedback, emails, comments, even a letter from a stranger.

During this time in Boone, I wrote a lot.  I wrote Steph's story. I was accepted into the BlogHer Publishing network and won the BlogHer Voice of the Week award for my essay about magical thinking and food.  There was a really nice review about it. I messed with the format and pages and tried out new ways of posting photos and new way of telling stories. I asked for some money and people from all over were surprisingly generous.

And funny things happened, and I wrote about them, like my run in with the law and the fountain incident at the Holiday Inn. I discovered that people are a lot more interested in reading about the little funny things that happen to you than they are in just another narcasistic adventure story.  Things started falling into place and I had a lot of friends and had the life I wanted. But then I ran over a badger and was cursed.  Will and I broke up, it hurt like a bitch and I left and then I barfed all over West Virginia, which was okay since I don't like West Virginia anyway.

Then I Moved Back to New England
I spent the summer alone on a hill in Vermont. I was sad but it wasn't horrible, and I stopped getting migraines. I got hired as a writer for Soul Pancake and was finally effected by the shit economy. While on hiatus from life, I wrote the most popular post ever written which, fortunately or unfortunately, included the word panties in the title. This made me real popular with all sorts of people who search for weird things on the internet. An editor read my piece on the Siete Tazas and a few months later it was published in a magazine and I went and bought it a book store in Maine where I was leading a  teen girl squad in the wilderness.

It was a slow summer. I had beautiful visitors. And I had one epic trip to the Ottawa River and when I returned I was only interested in writing in rhyme.  And I decided that my goal in life is to write for television.

But it's hard to write for television when you live alone in Vermont. It's hard to do anything, really. So I drove for 5 days across the country, stopping once to remind myself that I am still entangled, and now I'm here.  And there is a lot to write about.

What in hell will the next year bring, is what I want to know. Living one day at a time is like reading really slow fiction.  (But I hope you keep reading.)

What is it that you plan to do with your one wild and precious lunch hour?

And now I'm working. For someone else. Suddenly there are time frames to adhere to and reasons to fall asleep at an hour that other humans might consider decent. Overnight I have become the type of person who uses sentences with the words "juggle" and "schedule" and "let me see about that." Suddenly, the in between hours carry a lot more weight.


So tell me, what is it that you plan to do with your one wild and precious lunch hour?

Things I get for free


Part of an absentminded Wednesday, I go with Kendra our favorite store in Ballard, Kick it Boots and Stompwear which is next to the Kiss Cafe (beer on tap) which is next to the and the climbing gym (which I refer to, fondly, as the it the Meat Market.) The woman who owns the store discusses the job market with me while I sift distractedly through a rack of dresses. Her name is Angela, older and blond and well dressed, and she's incredibly friendly. Then, because the world is cruel I find one dress that I fall in love with. Brown and soft with flower sprigs and a pretty neck line. Because I'm a little bit of  a masochist I try it on. Perfect fit. It hangs off all the right places. I draw the curtains of the dressing room and the women in the store tell me don't I look lovely, and isn't that the most perfect dress there ever was for me!


But, believe it or not, I do have a modicum of survival tactics. It's not in my best interest to be buying anything these days that I don't need, which rules out anything that I can't eat or live within. I soothe myself.  I'll buy myself a new dress when I there is money, when there is something to celebrate. Surely there will be. Soon. Put it back old girl, there you go. (In times like these I talk to myself as if I were a horse.) And I take off the dress and hang it up where it belongs on the rack with all its mates.

Kendra tries on boots and dresses and makes a pile of things to buy. This is unprecedented. Kendra never buys anything. She still uses the same backpack she's had since middle school and she's 29. But it doesn't matter because she's so gorgeous that she could, to quote Sylvia Plath, eat men like Air. And she used to.

Angela gives me a pitying look as I leave the dresses behind and start walking the perimeter of her store, running my fingers over the polished toes of leather boots. I suddenly want to marry some rich guy and spend the rest of my life wearing boots. That doesn't sound bad at all. "That looked so good on you," she says from behind the counter, "we could set it aside...?"

"If you did that you might be holding it for a while." I pick up a shoe and look at it from all angels. Then I find myself telling Angela about a few writing projects. She's listening like a good mother, asking questions. I tell her about my upcoming dinner with Rainn Wilson and Craig Robinson, and also the latest application. The one that demanded three days worth of 9am-1am writing, how I after I hit send I was all hopeful but you can practically hear crickets chirping every time I open my email to check for a reply.

In the end, I buy this blue wrap thing. I know, I know, but it's this miracle fabric thing that I can wrap around myself six or seven different ways. It's very inexpensive and, I think with resounding clarity as I stand in front of the mirror, this may completely transform my 'look'. So I buy it and as I turn to leave Angela hands me a bag with something wrapped in tissue paper and tied up in green ribbon. She says, "This is for you to open after you get home. A little encouragement."

Kendra and I go to the Miro Tea house and she orders a sparkling tea with pieces of mango swimming around. I open the present. It's the dress I loved so much.

The Choice

Dear Applicant/Melina/Ms. Coogan/Writer/Submitter
Thank you for your application! We at xxxxxx depend on submissions like yours to keep in business! It sure was difficult choosing between all the many qualified applicants, but we at this time have decided to take a different direction. Thanks again, and best of luck!
Sincerely/From/Best/Keep in touch/Always,

Editor

I push back my chair and stare at the screen. Again? I look around the cafe to see if anyone is looking at me, if they can see the rejection glowing around my head like a big, glaring halo. I don't understand. Why would anyone want to go in a different direction than me? I'm the greatest!

And then that little insufferable voice starts speaking from the back of my head. No you're not. You're not the greatest. You suck. You little silly goof ball of failure! Think of all the jobs you don't have! And your nose is too big! Go sit in the bath tub and feed me a marshmallow, that's all your good at!

Another day another job rejection. It's so tempting. I could retreat forever into my covers with a Mark Helprin novel. A glass of seltzer water. Spend each day pattering between the bath and my bed. It wouldn't be all bad. I've known people who have done similar things, only instead of a bedroom it's a cave. A tiny little tent in the middle of nowhere.  Or I could go to nursing school.

This is The Choice. Listen to the bitch loser alien in my head and give up. Or, slap myself across the face, open up a blank document, and start again.

I'm not trying to bring you any kitten poster watered down inspiration here. Because I'm not sure how long I can go on slapping myself across the face and starting over. But we all face The Choice sometimes, some more than others I suppose. I figure if we start talking about it, it might sting less.


Maybe?

One last night on an island

But really, you're not alone for too long. And you can't be too introspective on the beach because there is too much weird, jelly-ish stuff to play with.


I loved this girl Andrea ever since she told me the story of how she met her husband.  It was three in the morning. There were drum circles. I was screaming at them to shut up. That's how he noticed me. Oh, new friend Andrea, I hate drum circles, too.  




Sea cowboy:


Edible things:
(I'm just a simple man/ I like cheap things/ I like pretty things/ I'm a simple man, really.)
Ocean Ghost Walking

Riding with a dog in the back of a truck at through cold evening. One more night, one more fire on the beach, one more ferry ride. One more return to Seattle.


 
 

Your heart's on the loose. You're rolling sevens with nothing to lose. -Ryan Bingham

In the Clouds

We took off running on the bluffs and then down to the beach. We played with every creepy spectacular thing we could find. It felt like running through a watercolor. I wouldn't describe it as having the sparkle or luster of the Atlantic, no, but it had this particular feeling to it. A pervasive damp gloomy gorgeousness that I wanted to eat, somehow. Or dissolve into.






It felt like you could keep going and going....


and going....









and going....



Until you forget about everyone else.



For the full experience, listen to this.

Sunday on Whidbey


Sunday on Whidbey Island. Waking up in a room of people asleep on the floor, a dark haired girl asleep next me in bed, wrapped up in the covers she stole from me in the night. The smell of wood smoke is in my hair and clothes, and I'm thirsty. I go downstairs to get a drink of water from the kitchen. There are beer bottles and coffee cups settled on every table and counter space. Someone is curled up on the couch reading a book.

Steph is already in the kitchen cooking a huge breakfast and I wonder if she even went to sleep last night. Maybe she just hovered in the kitchen with the lights off till the house was finally quiet, then popped up and started cooking all over again. I take a seat at the table and comb out my tangled hair with my fingers. I think about the previous night, standing over a drift wood bonfire, which I think is illegal, constantly changing positions as the wind blew the smoke in poisonous circles.

The strange summer of one year ago, I started having funny dreams and would wake up in a violent snap- knowing there was somewhere that I needed to be. NOW. Trying to get to the bottom of the dreams, which I was having every single night,  I sent Will a letter. I think the ocean is calling, said the letter. As a reply he sent me a picture of someone walking along the beach. The picture was from a book I'd given him for his birthday, On The Loose. On the Loose includes the most important piece of writing on the planet, a forward by Terry and Renny Russel  called Have You Ever?

Have you ever walked 34 miles on a straight-arrow dirt road in the desert with only a Tang jar of some rusty water because you expected someone who didn’t come and then walked past your turnoff in the dark and had to sleep on a cattleguard? Have you ever dropped your sleeping bag in the ocean by mistake? Have you ever followed a jeep track in the rain, which got worse and fainter and fainter and petered out a vertical quarter mile from where you wanted to go? Have you ever slept on a cobblestone riverbank? Or on a sand dune on a windy night and spit sand all the next morning? Have you ever climbed a mountain but missed the right peak by half a mile but the sun was down and you were freezing and had better find some dry wood and a place to sleep in the snow quick?

It goes on.
 
So here I am, by the ocean, now, feet on the cold sand, salt dusting my skin.


When the moon rose everybody went still to watch it. They talked about it being a blue or a harvest or an equinox something. There is was a smattering of lunar discussion. I can't really keep track of this stuff. I cracked open another beer and said something dismissive, something like "Looks good to me!" and go out to the fire.

My friends in Seattle are smart and earnest and responsible. They talk about public transportation and elimination diets.  My friends in West Virginia are of the live wet die young mentality. They talk about white water, raft carnage, kayaking, sex, and booze. (A lot of them, as its turning out, do indeed die young.)

I get a little lost in between.

Which just means, whenever I wake up I take a moment time to remind myself where I am, who I'm with. Who I'm going to be today.

I clear the table and start to set it for breakfast, tallying in my head just how many people are here. I've met a handful of new people, I'm very excited to say. Last night I met a girl at who used to work on fishing boats, and she knows all these sea shanties. It was a miracle. We sang all night on the beach as empty amber beer bottles of beer collected in the sand at our feet. She has stories of wrecked boats and knife fights. I'm starstruck, a little bit, like I've just met a real life cowboy.

 Breakfast:


After breakfast, the foraging:





We dry off afterward for a few hours with an ultra competitive, caffeine and rain induced battle of Sets. Suddenly and without warning, I get my ass seriously handed to me. By a lot of people. As in, uh, whoa, these people are way smarter than I. I go and take a nap. 





And then, we take off running.

If you'd make the drive, I'd take you there

When I think of a landscape I am thinking of a time. When I talk of taking a trip I mean forever. I could say: those mountains have a meaning, but further than that I could not say. -Adrienne Rich

To the reader, do you mind if I indulge myself in the next few posts with an overload of photos, and an excess of overused but unarguably accurate adjectives?  My friend Ammen turned 35, and since he's only ever going to turn 35 once, and since I've known him nearly half of my life, I want it all to be recorded.

We spent a long weekend on Whidbey island, in a cabin on the beach, smoke on the water, the lights of Port Townsend glowing from across the harbor. It was my first weekend back in the Northwest, and the outland dressed up for the occasion in greys and pearls, smoldered in fog, churned out ribbons of alien seaweed onto the pebbly coast. The stormy weather, moody ocean and the silvery rain constantly falling was met with whiskey bottles, bonfires, new belgium beer, hot coffee, books, and huge meals cooked up by Stephanie. 

I've known this for a little while, and I've waited to write about it because I had to first put my arms around her and make sure that it was real. She's one of the biggest reasons I moved back to Seattle, and the best news of the year, of the decade, is that she is healthy againAll this is behind us. So go outside, run around, drink one down, climb to top of the nearest mountain or sky scraper, take someone out to dinner, kiss them really well if you can, light a fire, and raise a toast to Steph and Ammen, because they deserve it.


Saturday afternoon, the ferry glides through flat dark water on a  perfectly polished fall day. Steph, Guinevere and I spend the whole time digging through the truck to find a board game to pass the time. We overestimate the length of our boat ride, because when we find the thing, "Catchphrase" and bring it up to the deck, we can see the island in such detail that we know we are already there.

We have the truck loaded down with backpacks and bags, coolers of beer and pots of food strapped shut and three birthday cakes, already frosted, balanced on our laps in the cab. We show up windblown and covered in icing. We show up leaping out of the truck and running up the steps to throw our arms around Ammen, and all the other people at the cabin who have biked with him the 80 miles out to the island. And may I say, sometimes it's worth not seeing your oldest friends for a whole year just for the joy of reuniting with them.


At a place like this:

For a weekend spent doing this: 

And this:

More to come. Only so much at once. . . .

Pleasures of the Harbor


After you drive for one week straight, no matter how coked up you are on your new life, no matter how jumping hot the city is, you don't exactly hit the ground running. Instead you hit the mattress whimpering. That's just what I did for a few days. I'd wake up in the middle of the day, stretch into a different position on my bed, flip over the pillow to the cooler side, and go back to sleep. Blinds kept out the sharp September sunlight and a fan swirled the noises of the outside world into whiteness. My boxes and backpack remained untouched at the foot of the bed and while my phone collected messages.

I was recovering not only from the drive, but also the physically brutal days I spent in Idaho on the most dangerous, mind twisting, knee blowing trek of my life. My sunburn reached an apex of pain and then peeled against the sheets. And on another level, my brain and body and circadian rhythms were adjusting to the cataclysmic shift my life was undergoing. I always get tired and need to sleep when the things around me are going through a profound change. In high school, when I learned that the creator, director, head coach of Adventure Quest had been molesting the boys around me and was going to prison for a long time, I fell asleep right there on the ground where I got the news and slept for about five hours straight. It's like emotionally-induced narcolepsy, and unfortunately, it can also go hand and hand with insomnia.  Ironic, ain't it.


Fortunately, this time there is no bad news. It's just that waking up in a new bed, in a new house, in a new neighborhood, and having your weather patterns effected by the Pacific instead of the Atlantic, can be disorienting when you take it all in one shot. Better to sip slowly.

I began to venture out of the house. Down 35th avenue. Market Street in Ballard at dusk. Back to the neighborhood bar with the ultimate friends. During these excursions I have to convince my mind that, contrary to all sensory evidence, I have not actually gone back in time. That actually, a lot has happened to me since I left and even if it's not immediately visible, it's right there beneath my skin. You can come back to live in a place you've been before, and be a completely different person. You can.

That's one thing I'm sure of. I'm a completely different person than I was when I left. 

However, most of the old pleasures of the city remain the same. Like Wallingford at sunset:

And my best friend, Lisa:


Writing all evening at Cupcake Royale in Ballard:


Greenlake walks in the afternoon:

And much much more, but why, forgive my terminology, blow the happy-to-be-back load all at once?

This one is for Jason Tabert, who asked me the other day to write a post that was....happy.

We're not much older now

In the morning I made acquaintances with the North Fork of the Payette River in Idaho. It felt like meeting the other woman.

So there you are. I've heard a lot of good things about you. Yeah. Yeah. Nice to meet you too. Do you smoke? No? Do you mind if I do?

By three in the afternoon I was halfway home. Through the arid edges of Oregon. Into the dessert of Eastern Washington, the dark Columbia river, seat belt burning welts into my excruciating sunburn. Road sign by road sign, the city inches closer.

It's dark when I reach Snoqualmie Pass on 1-90. Rain and traffic and the highway spreads out to 5 lanes. Freedom, by Jonathon Franzen, my 24 hour audio book companion, comes to an end. I surprise myself by bursting into tears with the last line. I cry for every miserable character in the book.

I'd like to make it clear to the reader that, regardless of any conclusion they may have drawn during paragraph 2, I do not actually smoke cigarettes. 

And the North Fork was not entirely like meeting the other woman. I take poetic license. Another woman would be a lot worse. She'd be most certainly prettier than me, and more flexible. Still, being left behind for a geological formation brings with it its own serving of confusing ramifications.


But now I'm merging onto 1-5 and swinging around the bend with the city on my left. There is the purple jagged outline of the Olympic Range, the houseboat moored on the private docks of lake union, cars zipping in strips of white and red light reflecting off wet pavement.

There is the University where I went to school, the famous library, almost gothic, visible from the interstate. There's the house where I lived, the ugly half-high-rise dormitory, playing fields, the ave, 45th street crossing, restaurants, smoke shops, Cafe zokas, that will be 4.75 for the cup of coffee please, ridiculous neon bubble tea houses with twelve different kinds of jelly and tapioca balls to choose from, Asian pop music videos on an enormous HD screen.

The Ave above 50th, where a vagrant man threw up on my shoes one afternoon, I think it was deliberate. The 85th/Green Lake exit with its clusterfuck of double strollers,  too thin moms bopping along behind them throwing dirty looks around to anyone who dares cross their path and slow down their timed-to-the-second 2.8 mile run. The 2nd busiest starbucks in the world (2nd to Tokyo)  my cousins' recently purchased house where I've been sending letters to for 5 months, the CHINA KING buffet where my sister and I would eat after every minor disaster (SARS, 16 day bouts of insomnia, a 1/2 burned apartment, minor mishaps with the stove top burners, unreturned phone calls from boys who should have married us although, in Anna's case, he did marry her after all, worrisome mouth sores, sparsely attended music gigs.)

There's the house where I dug through a pile of my then boyfriend's possessions and unearthed a stack of letters, the parking lot where the car hit me on my bike, the Emergency Room  at Swedish where they just about issued me a speed pass, the secret studio where Pearl Jam records, and Dave Matthews. The letters were signed by another girl and dated back for more than a year. The city buses where days in a row I sat next to a different crazy man who bled profusely from the head.

More than six years of small crimes and contentment punctuated with beads of pure joy. Where I lived, age 17-23. 

But I don't need to explain to you how it feels to be back.
Whoever you are, you've left a place and then returned. You know what it's like. All I'm really saying is, it's good to be home.