Will

So this is Will, five years ago when I first met him. He is a tirelessly good and private creature. In response to a handful of comments and emails- the story of how we met is not written on the blog. It actually happened before thewildercoast was started, but it's one of the most beautiful and most dramatic stories in my life. I think it's time to write it out.

We were together while I was writing the wilder coast, in North Carolina in the winter and spring of 2010. You can catch up with those posts in the archives (if you're so inclined) or check out old posts like this or this. I never wrote too much about him though. 

Will just left seattle after a blustery, sunny visit to Seattle, and I'm looking forward to posting about it, cautiously, letting him be the guarded boy he is and me be my throw-everything-out-there self.

I apologize for my absence, I was slammed with the norovirus and have been tremendously sick. When I can hold water down for more than five minutes, then I'll try blogging in earnest.

xo

All in a week

A haven't written a lot this week, owing to the fact that I have only one arm and it's difficult to type. And, to be honest, I've also been busy doing the things that I will soon write about. Next week I'll have a little more time, a little less pain medicine and hopefully a lot more mobility in my rotator cuff. Now, for the photos....a lot of them this week:
1. racers head up the mountain at Vert Fest. 2. kyle prays to the snow gods around the fire at alpental. 3. the snow gods deliver. 4. climbing after hours in a peaceful gym. 5. my beloved cousin's birthday brunch at Luc 6. the boots, the emergency room, the results of going fast 7. will brings me jewelry  8. our stormy sea glass haul 9. will and the dog on a treasure hunt in the wind 10. winter citrus juice with mango 11. we found a swing on the shore 12. return to boat world. 13. old friends in blankets on a thursday night.

Mega Bunny Maul

Yesterday I followed the big boys into the side country and I had a fantastic time and I separated my shoulder. Then I accidentally started this rumor that I got mauled by a big cat, which isn't true at all. I got mauled by the last piece of a shot called Mega Bunny and also by my own ego.
It was supposed to be a mellow day. I was planning on meeting up with some new friends and maybe doing a few warm up runs before suggesting some off piste exploration. But they are lunatic-good skiers, and they were in full force by the time I found them. They came swooping off the chairlift chanting my name which, you know, I really liked.

'MELINA! WE JUST RAN THE BUNNY!' said Dod. He's Australian so everything he says always sounds agreeable. 'AND NOW WE'RE DOING....MEGA BUNNY! AND SO ARE YOU!' I had no idea what the bunny was and I still have no idea, and the ski patrol guy who wrapped me into a mummy an hour later swore it doesn't exist, but he was senile.

So we got to the top of seventh heaven, took off our skis and started hiking up in the direction of cowboy mountain. The deadly tunnel creek avalanche occurred one year go exactly and the ridge was littered with flowers.
Then we pointed our skis down and sank into the side country on the most soft, fresh, thick, silent, silky powder there's ever been. The kind of shit people leave their husbands for. I've barely ever experienced anything more luxurious and perfect in my whole life, and I've taken a lot of extremely pleasant bubble baths...so...

I was working my way down, turn by turn, maintaining control through dense forest as we traversed West. Holly flew around me in graceful arcs while Dod and Jamison caught air and careened through the trees. We were all euphoric as clams, a handful of pearls in a happy oyster. I was enjoying myself immensely.
Then I saw that the run finally mellowed out, but there was a creek in between the steep and the mellow and I decided to try and hit it straight on. I hit it and it was great and glorious, but then I spun out mid air and landed entirely on my left shoulder and elbow and there was a series of crackles and pops and stretchy sounds like somebody chewing a Rice Krispie treat while blowing bubble gum and also loudly separating their shoulder.

I started laughing, my face a foot deep in the aforementioned powder. Laughing was the option that made me look the least pathetic, so I laughed. The others started laughing too and cheering and kept on going. I struggled to my feet. It hurt quite a bit. I tenderly skied out on a long tight traverse that whipped and pirouetted between trees, unable to move my left arm at all.
The others ran the Bunny again but I thought I'd use this excuse to go flirt like hell with ski patrol.  Surely the first aid station could dole out a good looking bearded man who would gingerly remove me from my layers and give me a good DCAPBTLS search. I do have a thing for paramedics, if history has taught me anything, especially when they're dyslexic. Unfortunately I got Bob, who was older than life and senile. He bundled my shoulder in a triangle bandage, then leaned in closer and said, "Honey, now if you were Egyptian, this would look like a beautiful necklace."

I stared at him, and my friend Jenny stared at him, and then I said "Thank you, Bob." Before I left he gave me a bag of snow.
I joined Jenny and her gaggle of good looking Leavenworth folks and drank a few beers. This is when the rumors began. A beautiful girl named Lacey helped me retie my mummy thing into an actually sling. I put up a picture of my arm on Instagram and told everyone I'd been mauled. Now I know that people associate the word 'maul' with 'animal attack, ' but I wasn't really aware of that before. For the next five hours I got messages from friends and blog readers saying "what was it that mauled you???? wild boar?? bear???" And I was too embarrassed to say it was just me, just me being an idiot, so I kept my responses really vague.

By the time I got back to Seattle, I needed help getting out of my coat. So my friend Fozz came over and helped me out of my coat. He brought wine but I decided I needed something heavier. I dragged him down the street to the High Life for their frozen creme de menth cookie desert. But it didn't help. It dawned on me I ought to go to the emergency room. Which I did.

They treated me very nicely, undressed me and took some X-rays. The nurse said "Now honey I'm going to give you some narcotics for the pain, who is driving you home?" And I said, "Nobody! I'll just walk!" And I laughed, which somehow made me seem less pathetic. She shrugged and gave me the good stuff. They covered me in heated blankets. Adam texted me every arm and shoulder pun he could come up with and I cackled like a Vicodin soaked hen. I was thoroughly cooked when I got home and I fell asleep like a breeze.

It was the best day.
And now for some horrific, one armed yoga moves and the waiting. 

All in a week

1. celebrating the Chinese New Year with a huge feast homemade by Jesse 2. Katie on two hours of sleep. 3. incredibly talented cook 4. the dog, lost at sea. 5. Megan on a empty mountain powder day 6. my new obsession 7.valentines day dinner 8. Jeremy 9. thursdays 10. sun soaked back country day


good looking

From the last few days.

The trees look good when you know how to navigate.
This shitty apartment looks good when it's crowded at night.
The beach looked good this morning when we came across this. (I guess we found it, dog!)
Winter looks good when viewed from above. 
***
When I turned 25 Will gave me a lantern full of river glass from the Watauga Gorge in North Carolina. A few weeks later I ran the Watauga Gorge, following a few feet behind him, copying his moves paddle stroke by paddle stroke. It was a triumph but something made us fight about it later. It wasn't long till it was over and I drove out of the south for good. Years past and he spent them on rivers around the world and it seemed like we'd never speak again. But I've collected sea glass for him ever since. I keep it in a jar in my closet. 

We found all this this morning, the dog and I, enough to top off the jar. Good thing, because Will is coming to town in just a few days. The boy I met in the grand canyon in the depths of winter, five long years ago. And boy is he good looking. 

Backcountry Photo Book

After years of saving money, accumulating gear, falling helpless into basins of powder and scratching the surface of avalanche awareness, I finally started creeping into the backcountry. Backcountry skiing, or touring, means heading out into ungroomed, untamed wilderness: no lifts, no trails, no patrol, no avalanche control. It's big, and wild, and requires a lot more involvement with the environment, as well as real communication between group members. Each trip requires checking avalanche conditions and weather forecasts, and understanding the slope, aspect and cardinal directions of your tour. 

But the biggest difference between touring and downhill is this: if you want to ski down, you have to skin up, which can feel like a lot of work.
Katie Paulson Photo
The blue sky euphoria and primal happiness of carving slow, well earned turns in heavy snow is unparalleled. It feels like you've skinned into the far reaches of the world, but really you're just a quick drive down I-90 and you can be home for dinner. The best part is I've only just started exploring, so everything is brand new. 

Here are some shots and stories from the past few days:  
Kaeli. Katie Paulson Photo
Chris and his god damned legendary moustache 
Katie Paulson Photo
One of my oldest friends in Seattle, Katie, visited last weekend, all chaos and confidence in colored tights and skin tight base layers. She's the girl who pulls off all her clothes and skis naked when the sun is out. (Katie finally started keeping track of her adventures here.) She stumbled into my apartment at seven in the morning, throwing avalanche gear and bright jackets into her backpack. In the middle of last minute route planning and weather checking and loud laughter she paused, scratching her head, and declared, "You know what? I think I was at Denny's at four in the morning last night. I can't remember." I'm just standing in my living room in long underwear, blinking, still groggy after nine hours of sleep, staring at my friend as if she were some bright, exotic creature from another world.

"Katie...how much sleep did you get?" 
She shrugs. "I'm not sure....two?"

For anybody keeping score, Katie is younger then me.

Somewhere in the middle of our sparkling blue and white day in the Alpental backcountry, she came across her toothbrush in her backpack. "Oh, thank God!" She said, and started brushing her teeth. "This will get rid of the whiskey. And whatever I had at Denny's. Bacon, I want to say?" Then she spit and plunged ahead. I followed behind, laboriously, my breath and heartbeat and the hiss of fabric through snow the only sounds.
***
We were heading into it, the boat girl and I and a few others, when the little metal parts of Stef's bindings came springing out in all directions. Despite multiple tool kits, we couldn't get her skis together again. She had to turn around and head back to town. Our look of defeat:  
***
Jeremy and I went for a half day spin yesterday up Hyak. This boy is extremely athletic, all lanky muscles, his life a whirl of nonstop ice climbing and cragging and skiing. The fact that I could *just* keep up with him on the uphill was a big win for me. I was very happy with myself and even convinced him to celebrate with sweet potato fries and barbecue at the North Bend bar and grill. In general, he's a reserved gentleman, but he opened up, finally, like a jack in the box, after I'd say four years of work on my end. "You were never asking the right questions before," he said, cracking up. 
That's what skiing has done for me this year, opened everything up. It's transformed this season from a winter I didn't wanted to start into a winter that I don't want to end. 

unrecognizable and completely aloof

When I entered the realm of single again just before Halloween, I was hit with that flash of determination that often follows in the wake of a break up. Do you know what I'm talking about? It's the voice in your head that says, "Okay, no problem, I'm just going to get better than everyone at everything. I'm going to become a brand new person, totally unrecognizable and completely aloof." I was going to throw myself into climbing and become incredibly strong and make it all look effortless. Easy.

We all get the post break-up flash in some way or another, and it usually resolves itself in about a week. Some people, if they're really feeling it and have some extra miles to burn, make a trip to Europe or South America to transform themselves. Other just get a haircut. Once I got my hair cut in Europe, just to make it double count.

Maybe it's because I'm old now, but the most recent post-split inspiration didn't have the spark of divine fire it's had in the past. The whole routine just felt tired. After all, I've been reinventing myself after every significant life change for the past ten years, and I've always looked exactly the same. The flight attendants still ask me if I'm old enough to sit in the exit rows, that's how little I've changed.

I did do one thing, however, before the inspiration evaporated. I got a gym membership, because I knew if I didn't I'd be in big trouble. The clouds and darkness had settled in over the city for the winter. I was feeling less and less enthusiastic about running and I've never felt enthusiastic about running in the first place. So I signed up at the gym down the street, the nice one in an old hotel. The hallways are narrow and it's constantly under construction. It's easy to get lost in there.

This was (relatively) monumental (for me) because I've never belonged to a gym in my life. I've only ever worked out at climbing gyms- there are five around Seattle, each one more hip than the last. There was even a climbing gym in my tiny rural Vermont town, although it's gone now and the building abandoned. Rock gyms are excellent places. I used to work at one. They're very social, very loud, and there's a passive aggressive competitive vibe that makes you actually work hard and invest hundreds in Lulu lemon clothing.

But I haven't been able to stomach any of them since Drew and I broke up. They were our old haunts. The determination to become a pro climber got me about as far as the door. Mostly I needed a break from the whole scene; it can be kind of an intense scene. Plus, I'd run into him all the time and have to play it totally cool while secretly analyzing his every movement and wondering about every girl he came into contact with. I don't know if that sounds like fun to you, but I'd rather get my feet run over by a semi.

So to the normal gym it was, and thus began the most half hearted exercise regiment in the history of the world. I would plod along on the elliptical for hours, barely breaking a sweat, pulse ticking along, glued to the television. I tried to time it so that Long Island Medium would be on. When the episode was over I'd feel extremely disappointed, then I'd take a shower and walk home. It was grim, but it was very safe and I didn't know anyone. It was the physical equivalent of eating wonder bread, but I was resigned to it. Now that I'd lost my favorite climbing partner and obviously I'd never find another one, this was my life now. The elliptical. The television.

Then I met Ren. She's a personal trainer and she's very smart, with a hundred or so different trainings and certificates behind her. And she's hot. Like smoking hot. Jaw-dropping, head turning, lay on the horn when you drive past her kind of hot. Her body looks like mine does in all my 'after' fantasies. Her hair changes color a lot.

At first I was skeptical- I certainly didn't need the luxury of a personal trainer. But, ya know what, I did. I was swimming in circles. Someone had to rescue me from the purgatory of treadmills and the teen mom marathons that run all week day long, and if that person looked like Ren, all the better.

I met her at a downtown gym that looked like a big indoor playground. There were straps and ariel fabrics and bouncy balls. She was wearing a skin tight David Bowie shirt and smiling. She does not stop smiling.
In fact, Ren is the kind of person who is so encouraging and so friendly that you find yourself spilling everything the moment she asks how your week went. Trainer qua therapist. For our first meeting, I threw myself on the couch and buried my head into the cushion."I've stopped climbing for now," I said into the fabric, "and I don't know what to do."

"How do you feel about that?"

"Unbelievably sad. Also lonely, because that was my social scene. But mostly I'm just frustrated at myself. I'm almost 28 and I don't know how to work out. I know how to follow people, I know how to maintain what I already got, and I'm pretty good at wasting time." I fiddled with my coffee cup, feeling like a total loser. I felt like I was finally admitting that I was a fake, even though that's not true. I've been climbing since I was eleven. I went to climbing high school. How do I not feel real yet? "I want to be able to work out just me, alone, and I want to mean it." Ren nodded, taking the occasional note. "I don't know why I've always been so dependent on other people for exercise, for adventures, I mean it's my fucking body."
at sixteen in portero chico, mexico, which is arguably too dangerous to visit today.
"And one more thing," I said, really on a roll. "I'd love to get fit, and really strong. But I already love my body, and I don't want to whittle away at my boobs or my ass because I love them. I don't want to look all scary. And I won't workout till I throw up. Some of the girls would throw up when we were training for ultimate and seemed like the most awful thing." Ren wrote down: more boobs, less vomit.

We got started. Ren put me through a series of warm ups and watched me very closely. She took measurements, photos, videos. She told me to stand against a wall with the center of my spine touching the wall and raise my arms up. It seemed simple. I couldn't do it. To begin with, I had no idea where the middle of my spine was. It was as if I had no core, no center of myself. I had all these muscles that refused to work as a coherent unit.

For another hour, she taught me some movements that were excruciating, painful, and very graceful. They were surprisingly fun. I could do them, but not for long. My movements were jerky, hesitant.

"Well," I said, afterwards. "What do you think?" I'm a praise monger. Even after my not too impressive display, I was still hoping she'd tell me I was the strongest girl she'd ever seen and that I had the potential to be a complete miracle in all ways.

"You're very strong. You have excellent posture." I beamed. "And you're completely in pieces."

Oh right. That. I shrugged. "That's sort of how it feels," I said. "That's how everything feels."

She grinned. "Let's work on that."
***
This was only three months ago. It's unbelievable how far this woman has taken me since then.

All in a week

1. thursday yoga is a tradition older than ella 2. shell-less on the summit on another warm day 3. king sized bed outside of chicago 4. Miro tea with my baby cousin 5. playing this word game that made us nearly vomit with laughter (thanks Jesse for the shot). 6. the last day of january 7. Jesse murders chocolate hearts 'in preparation for valentines' 8. the wisconsin border is not the 7th wonder of the world 9. the downward dog on an urban trek 10. an entire day, just her and me.



the midwest is in winter

I went back to chicago for work. there was plenty of time on this trip for exploring the strange places, the al marts and the doughnuts all day and the johnny pam cakes featuring adult entertainment nightly come in and say hi to pam breakfast served all day. there was also time for swimming alone in a hotel pool and for writing until the weird hours at a bitter cafe on the side of the highway. I'm not sure how i can feel so content in flat places where i know nobody and it's a stinging 4 degrees outside, yet when the plane sinks back into my drizzling city i have this ability to feel empty again. what is that?

checking in from a flat country

So, I live in a shitty apartment. That's been established.

But sometimes I pretend I live in hotels, like Eloise did.

On this Sunday night I'm writing from somewhere near...Wisconsin I want to say? It's blowing snow outside. I'm staying in a suite, with a kitchen in it, just like a rock star! In fact, I'd go totally rock star and destroy the whole place for the fun of it, but that would be really disrespectful to the people who would have to clean it up. This place has a pool, and a hot tub which is currently in need of repairs, and I have a bath tub, and a bed so big that I can sleep at any orientation I'd like. Tonight: diagonal. Tomorrow: who knows!

I'm in the Midwest and the sky is the limit!
I had dinner at one of those country store restaurants  It was my first time in a place like that. There was a huge fireplace and I got seated right next to it, because I was the only person in the place. Even completely deserted, it was the most cheerful place I've ever been! There was a store attached to it that sold lots of candy and soda in bottles, and the cashier said she'd give me a private tour of all the candy and soda, because there was nothing else going on. You'd better believe I said yes!
Then they served me a pile of stuff on a plate, which was confusing because I thought I'd ordered food.

Now it's night time, and I play the game of Melina vs. Hotel Room Suite. How can I use you to the max? Can I write on every table, bounce on every sofa, how many channels can I watch at once? Can I watch the television from the tub? Is there anything lying around that I can put into the fridge? The full sized fridge?

Speaking of rock stars, my sister opened for Taj Majal last night. Mother fucking Taj Majal. And then my mom was all, "Oh, yes, your dad and I hung out with Taj this morning, we were in the same hotel, he thought your sister was very talented!"

It is february 3rd, the year of our lord 2103, and we seem to all be doing pretty well.

(Hey by the way, whenever I travel I respond to every comment left on the blog. So go ahead, introduce yourself!)

All in a week


1. we're getting bolder out of bounds. 2.bluebird days in the city. 3. a bit windy. 4. all flights grounded in Chicago 5. Mackenzie considers an empty mountain at night. 6. red ale at the lodge for lunch. 7. work commute 8. lots and lots of writing this week- feeling almost completely depleted 9. thursday yoga nights from now till spring. 10. two new friends to chase after down steep stuff. 11. friends and food kills the cold. 12. big crashes.

This is what it means to say I'm getting by

I would like the world to know that I live in a shitty apartment. It's probably the worst apartment in this entire watery scandinavian neighborhood. The other day my roommate broke down the door to the downstairs laundry room because it had rusted shut. She's got a good strong arm.

My cousin told me that some people pretend to live above their means and that it was very good that I live squarely within mine, even if there is no bath tub. Even if the place should actually be condemned. We wonder sometimes if maybe the management would rather see it burn down and that's why the furnace is so over enthusiastic and rattly. I bought renter's insurance the day I moved in.

Downstairs lives a cigarette smoking, thirty-something hero from Nebraska. He was in charge of the entire democratic campaign for the state of Washington, he has gay marriage and legalized pot to his name. I think about this when he plays awful music in the morning and it reverberates into my bedroom; I remind myself about his accomplishments, and decide I don't need to complain.

I met a boy two weeks ago who plays hockey. He was funny and I asked him on a date. He said yes and then he got mono. He got mono the very next day.

The apartment has its own charm. Somewhere. I haven't found it yet, but it's there. My roommate is an artist, she's hung art all over the walls. She put two pictures of sailors, a mate and a midshipman, over the sink, that I particularly like. There is a joyous squirrel who resides in the walls and scurries around all of the time, doing his busy squirrel things. We see him outside, chewing on a nut and jumping all over the roof. He's the wildest guy. We're not hostile towards him even though the sound of his little claws scratching within the insulation can be unnerving.

Three weeks ago my banker sweet-talked me into switching checking accounts. He said it made the most sense for my needs, and then he made a big mistake and linked all the new cards to the old account. That night I went to dinner with my ex boyfriend, and I wasn't coming off as very cool or collected, and then, just to drive the point home, my card was declined. "Not enough funds perhaps?" asked my ex boyfriend while I twitched at the unfairness of it all.

The next day the banker put on his sympathetic and apologetic smile, very similar to the one worn by the waitress who took my tearful order the night before. "I hope this didn't cause you too much trouble!" said the banker, voice booming. He was cheerful, a real guy's guy with a thick wedding band and a terrible watch.

"No trouble," I said, "Only deep seated humiliation." And then I made him sit through the whole story, the dinner and why we were at the dinner, and how it ended, and how I felt about it all. That was his punishment for the part he played in the bank's causing me to appear less than put together, as if drinking my dinner and hiding behind my hair like a middle schooler hadn't already given it away.

The shitty apartment has its perks. When the guy from Nebraska is out hanging with the president (literally) I can play loud 90s music with no regard for the well being of the rest of the world. 90s music, it's really speaking to me right now. Sonny's come home many times in the last month. Today's top hits are a little too spunky for me these days. Sometimes I'll fall lightly asleep in the middle of the day and hope that by the time I wake up this country's obsession with Adam Levine will be over.

The walls in the apartment are the color of a bandaid, honestly, sort of a tan fabric-y skin color. But there is a pantry- a whole room for food!- and just in general, things are looking up. I went to a party the other night and looked great, by my standards. I even pulled off the eye liner. I met a cinematographer who was slight in build but very handsome and accomplished and he took down my number. That was many days ago.

The apartment is covered in a beige carpet, everywhere except the kitchen. It looks terrible but it's quite soft under the feet. My roommate comes home from work, dressed in all black down to the underwear, and we sit on the carpet three inches from the furnace. I read an article that says that sex and alcohol make you happier than religion. "Well," I say, "there will always be alcohol." Once I army-crawled from my bedroom to the kitchen and retrieved a beer out of the fridge on my stomach because I found it really funny.

I wish that the tall man in the down jacket had been looking at me in the coffee shop, and not the girl in the crisp white blouse sitting behind me.

I've never once, not one time in my life, gotten away with wearing a crisp white anything. It's always stained before I even leave the house, and I use the passive tense because I don't cause the stain, it just happens. I went on a date the other night and I wore a long green sweater. It was great, lose, it made me appear bony, and I'm not bony. I stained the sweater and the most baffling part was, I didn't even eat anything on the date. Therefore I can't fathom the origin of the stain which looked like balsamic. The poor guy, he ordered dinner but I just drank a beer. And when he (eventually) asked me a question about myself I said, "Oh me? I think I'm depressed."

I'm not depressed at all. But I was a little depressed at the time because I didn't want to be on the date. Unfortunately I think he found my forthrightness (or maybe my boniness) intriguing and after he finished his dinner he ordered another drink.

We only signed a six month lease on the apartment because it's going to be destroyed after we leave, and a condo built in its place. That really made me question the pet deposit. I will miss the kitchen though. The kitchen is tiled and spacious, a real selling point. It's a good place to cook soup and to make breakfast at six in the morning before dashing off to the ski hill. In the evenings I like to fix a drink, open Facebook and spend an hour or so comparing what people have accomplished in their entire lives to what I've accomplished in the last 24 hours. I never measure up well. So many people and their fiances and back country ski trips that are way better than mine. And the houses! Was I supposed to be saving money this whole time so I too could be captioning my photos with things like 'it's a fixer upper for sure but we loooove the wood floors!" I just charged my coffee to a credit card; somebody please explain this gap.

The location of our apartment just can't be beat. There is a fruit stand a few blocks away called Top Banana. We always have bowls and bowls of fruit that we liquify and drink with gusto. We are bizarrely healthy. I can walk everywhere, to the dark cafe where all the writers go and talk loudly about our unreasonably demanding agents (we don't really have agents). I walk to the funky gym inside the old hotel, the nice grocery store, the bar with pin ball machines, the pizza place and the pet store that's managed by a semi-famous poet. I love our neighborhood. I never drive anywhere.

I finally got my bicycle back from my ex boyfriend, after the dinner where the card was declined. We bolted the bicycle to the back porch but if anyone wanted the bicycle they could take down the back porch with a nail file. We don't hang out on the porch, it wobbles. My first night in the place I opened three windows, and all the locks peeled off in my hands. Just like that.

I want the world to know that even though the apartment is shitty, it doesn't mean we're unhappy living here. In fact I'd like to be the spokesperson for those of us nearing 30 and still living in bland places with tacky carpeting. I'd make a good candidate for this job because my life is lucky and wonderful, just not from an observer on the street. We're pretty broke but we're getting by, and we have a lot of good friends and a few side projects which might turn us into big stars one day. We might be kind of quiet about where we live, or other certain parts of our lives, but it's not because we're ashamed. It's because we're probably focused on other things right now.

The walls in my apartment are dreadfully textured and half the outlets don't work, but if I could change anything about my life, it would have nothing to do with where I lived. I might change the minds of the editors at the big magazines, or at least speed up their response times. I'd change the numbers in my bank account so that I could afford a new camera before I die. While I'm at it, I'd shorten the recovery time for mono by five months and make my hair behave at all times, especially at night, especially when I bump into the cinematographer at the grocery store wearing that stupid sweatshirt which hides my nicely sculpted shoulders.

And I'd like the cinematographer to call me, although something tells me he never will.  I can't understand that for one second, because honestly if I met myself at a party, I'd call. I'd call right away, I wouldn't even play the game.

the other half of my life

I leave my house at 6 in the morning, gliding in an absurdly fancy town car with a paper cup of coffee in my hand, wearing a smart black jacket and a scarf. My bag is packed neatly with papers and spreadsheets. I'm bound for Akron, Ohio for work. 'The buckeye state is lovely this time of year,' says my boss, dryly, from his office at the opposite side of the country. 

I never make it to Akron.

Instead I fly directly into the sleeting heart of Winter Storm Luna, which is punishing the city of Chicago in sheets of ice and crashes of thunder. The scene at the airport is dismal, business men and women slumped in their seats watching the weather deteriorate. The little commuter jets are sprayed down with thousands of gallons of orange de-icing mist. Some poor soul is wandering around giving out samples of Tylenol decongestants. The flight to Cleveland is delayed, then cancelled. Shortly after, all planes are grounded. There's an uproar. A stampede to the ticketing desk. I throw my elbows out. 

In an instant, someone new emerges from within me, the person that I rarely ever get to see- efficient, clipped, polite but steely. I'm on the computer snatching up a hotel room before they all disappear, pushing numbered tags to harried desk workers, demanding my luggage, shouting on the phone to the airline (bad connection) while simultaneously insisting to the cab driver that the airport suites should really be closer than the length we're driving. 

There are no workable flights to Cleveland. I make a snap decision- I give up and grab the last seat on the last flight to Seattle. (It's always the last seat on the last flight.) Actually, I reserve that ticket three times in a row, my confirmation evaporating from their system each time. 

From the seventh floor of the hotel I watch the sky seize with white lightning and a brick square of a bar pulse neon blue in the deserted parking lot below. I turn the TV on and off. Then, overtaken with a sudden energy: alone in a hotel room, a gal on the go, a real person! I spread out all my papers on the giant white bed which could fit eight of me. Quite chipper, I write a magazine query, some book work, I drink a corona with lime sprawled out on the bed, typing away, happy as can be. I decide that being stranded outside O'hare in January is the quintessential American experience, that I'm very lucky. I order room service.

The next morning I fly to San Jose, then Seattle, having spent two full days traveling and going absolutely nowhere, a big useless triangle on the map. "Such is the way of these things," says the new me, the business me, tightening my black pea coat and ordering an airplane cocktail. 

In less than a week I'll be back to Chicago, another training session, another meeting. Then California, then Kentucky, then Massachusetts. Again and again and again and again.

all in a week

1. eleven girls drinking barley tea at the spa. 2. bluebird days and 60 degrees at the summit. 3. tights and boots weather, my favorite. 4. my boat world girl on a wet, wet powder day. 5. my view every morning. 6. ski day with the boy who does not sugar coat his advice. 7. dinner party in our little house. 8. my office at the ski lodge. 9. the friday powder day grin. 10. sessions with my dream team trainer, Ren. 

Inversion

On Sunday there was an enormous inversion and the world flipped on its head. On top of the mountain the weather was warm, sixty degrees and blue, while below the normally tepid city froze stiff and smothered in fog.

On saturday I was nearing the very bottom of things, curled up on the kitchen floor in the early afternoon, my head filled with black sand. Then the world did its somersault, and suddenly I was on top of the mountains, looking down at the city as if it were a little map. Suddenly I was okay again.

It was jarring.

Standing on the summit on Sunday morning with a friend, I didn't feel sad. The air was soft and warm and light. My lungs expanded as the weight of the black sand disappeared from my chest, they unfurled like the white wings on a hollywood angel. The snow was old, and it gleamed under an icy crust like meringue. "Such terrible conditions," said everybody. Our skis hissed through grainy piles of snow, like sugar.
On the last run of a long day, I started to think about the workweek ahead of me. I dangled my legs back and forth on the lift, wondering if I'd end up at the bottom of the ladder again, back on the kitchen floor with the cat clock swinging its paw back and forth between seconds. Then I had a brilliant idea. I could just come back here. I work remotely, after all. Why not?

On the way home I called my friend Cindy. Her work is transportable too, and we're both tired of coffee shops and lonely at home. She agreed in an instant.
Morning comes, and we're out of the city before dawn. The inversion layer remains for a second heavenly day in a row and we spend the morning on the back side, neck deep in sunshine.

It is so warm that, pushing through a particularly steep run, heavy with spring slush, we become completely overheated. We stop in the trees, strip away the last of the layers and lie down in the snow. Face against the ice, back against the sun, it is intoxicatingly warm. I am feeling voluminous.

"Hey," I say to Cindy. "Maybe I'm manic!"

"I don't think so," she replies cheerfully. "I think you're just skiing."
****
Two days ago, my roommate came home in the afternoon and found me on the rug. She knelt down, a flash of black in torn stockings. "I think you should get up," she said gently. This alarmed me; she never sounds gentle. We've known each other since we were seven. "Maybe have some cereal?" She has great big eyes, like an owl, and they were focused on mine. I turned my face to look at the wall. The black sand shifted from one side to the other.

"Sounds complicated." I said.
***
Now here I am, I'm whirling down the mountain in the middle of a January thaw so warm it feels like I'm swimming. I'm all smiles and laughter and talking a big talk about new writing ideas, new publications, new articles, a book. I'm telling Cindy about seeing Andrew one last time, how I got bombed on martinis and cried at dinner, now I'm wiping my hands together briskly of all that, all better now. Turning to look at the bright dome of the limitless world, breathing deeply. All better!

(It's amazing what the sun will make you think.)
Cindy and I work for a few hours at the lodge, snap together a little office in seconds with coffee and chords and laptops. I squint at spread sheets in my ski boots; we are surprisingly productive. Then the sun drops behind the mountain, and the tiny disk of the moon slides up the side of the sky. We keep skiing into the night, a warm blue basin swimming with stars. I can't explain it, but I feel so strangely new. Like the beginning of someone.

Allow me to introduce myself.

the art of swimming to shore

1. We know you have tried valiantly to shut out the type of useless information that will cause you pain. You don't see the point of going to the old spots, of possibly running into him, of seeing who he's with. He didn't do anything wrong, but you're just trying to take care of yourself.  We appreciate your effort. But we think it's important that you know, anyway. So we arrange for you to find out. You see a picture. Him with somebody new. Carefree, happy. On a trip. Just one picture, we thought that it would be okay.

2. You're writing on a Sunday night, drinking a hot chocolate instead of coffee. This is generally when you write, you like the midnight deadline and how it forces you to organize your thoughts. You're a last minute kind of girl. You just submitted two articles, to glowing praise from the editor, and you've got that little surge of triumph. You're doing so well, just in general, we thought it would be okay. You're working full time, and all the skiing. You have just about everything you need and then some. You've lost ten pounds. You look great. Really.

3. So your reaction, we have to admit, confuses us. You do not take it well. You grab your stomach like you've just been punched, rush to close the offensive window on the computer. You're frustrated- this is what you didn't want to happen. You pack up quickly, hands skittering across the table, in a hurry. When you reach the door there is a table full of police officers who turn and smile at you. You smile back. Then you go outside and start to cry.

4. It's extremely foggy outside, a freezing fog. Very strange weather. Watch out for those runaway trains.

5. You're crying very hard now. Maybe you shouldn't be driving.

6. We really don't think you ought to be driving.

7. You're becoming a little hysterical. You sob until you start to cough, gripping the steering wheel, trying to navigate through the blanket of fog and the distorted lens of tears. Then you pull over and throw up the hot chocolate. There goes four dollars, you think blankly, a little surprised.

You're not the only one who is surprised. This reaction, while not altogether illogical, is certainly unnecessary. It seems to be a bit out of nowhere. You're a puzzle.

8. As you stand by the side of the road, feeling spinny, it occurs to you that you might be going through a fairly significant depression.

9. Now we're starting to feel a little uneasy. You sort of had us fooled; we thought you were farther along than this. So did you, apparently. You're back on the road. You shouldn't be alone. We arrange for a friend to call at that moment, we pull some strings. It's the least we can do.

10. You wind up at your friends' house, a decision which causes us great relief. It's ten thirty at night, they were already in bed. She leads you to the couch, takes you fully into her arms like you're a kid. Your forehead is hot. She soothes you as if you were her own daughter. Her own daughter is sleeping in the nursery just a few yards away. As a courtesy, you cry silently.

8. Then he gets up and sits with you for a few minutes. He's known you since you were fifteen, he was your high school teacher, of all things, but he's never seen you like this. There are big tears running down your face. He says, "those are some big tears." You sleep in a bed in their basement.

9. We're struggling with the idea that we may have jumped the gun. Maybe you were right, that ignorance is bliss. But we really thought you ought to know. The baby cries all night and keeps you half awake. You're aware of those transitions that normally occur during sleep: the sadness melting and forming a new shape, something that feels more like exhaustion, but in a good way, like a ship finally pulling away from the harbor and slowly fading out of site. By morning you've realized this: it's not going to get any worse. In this realization there is an endless supply of relief.

10. We understand the cliche of a writer writing about depression, coming up with shaky metaphors that work, barely, to both explain how it feels and to keep it a little bit at arm's length. But that's what you get to do now. Maybe for better, maybe worse, definitely a little surreal and probably lacking in judgement, but we'll make sure you're capable of it. It might make it all worth it in the end.

Like we said, it's the least we can do.

Vajanuary

Welcome to Vajanuary, the very special month I invented back when I was the only girl on the staff of an outdoors high school in South America, enduring a never ending onslaught of flaunted muscles, man-fests, bonfires, shirt-lessness and bearded men who were forever declaring their love for whiskey and driving with one elbow out the window NO MATTER HOW COLD IT WAS.
(Why did I leave that place?) (What is it with men talking about whiskey?)

Vajanuary was my antidote to this unending Movember- a month dedicated to spending time outside in the company of ladies, doing essentially whatever you want to do and ordering your drinks extra girly with a twist.  It's a holy month. And I began this year's in Missoula, where Nici and I indulged in all good girlfriend activities.
Late at night, we lay side by side on the living room floor and wrote, both pushing our deadlines to the breaking point. We were constantly interrupting one another's concentration with just one more thing- one more thing we have to discuss about writing or life before I swear, I'll let you work, and she kept putting a fresh martini in my hand until, sometime around midnight, I couldn't figure out what the hell I'd been sad about lately. Life was fantastic!

The thing is, at Nici's house, life is fantastic. I'm tossed awake up from a very peaceful sleep to Margot and Ruby jumping on the bed and pulling away the covers, and Andy puts a double espresso in my hand and then we go sledding. Sledding is followed by more coffee, and food, and card games and books and writing and talking and writing and talking. Then we go to sleep and do it all again.

And my God, but that woman makes a good Martini.
On Monday evening, Nici gathered up her girlfriends and we met a brewery for the things girls do best: talking. At length. About everything. Telling stories about ourselves and everyone we know. Leaving the table only to get another pint of beer, chasing it with red wine and the best burgers in Montana. Becoming louder, our laughter out of control, waving our hands around to get the point across.
No simpler way to say it: I love that woman and her sweet, chill, gorgeous family. I love the way she invites me so warmly into the workings of her household, the way she generously shares her friends with me around a wooden table covered in peanut shells, the way she gets me all liquored up on Montana Juniper and forces me to confront my fear of olives.

Happy Vajanuary! Are you celebrating?

notes from never land

1. I talk on the phone with Andrew, for the first time in nearly three months. I'm in the produce section of a PCC staring at a pile of oranges. It's fairly early in the morning. Because he used to be my best friend and I miss him and I haven't  heard his voice in so long, it is kind of a tough start to the day.

"Our breakup was hard for me, too," he's saying, "but I think I had a somewhat....different reaction."

"What do you mean?" I ask. I know exactly what he means.

"Well, I didn't need to escape to Montana."

I laugh a little. "I sure did."
2. I have been running away a lot lately. Picture a little kid running full speed, arms flailing, away from the blue cartoon dinosaur of sadness. That's how it looks in my head, anyway, although I have been told that my imagination is a bit, how do I put this, overactive. But it hasn't been the worst thing- not when there are so many tempting places to run away to.

My latest escape brings me back to Montana, to the cabin where I spent two weeks of rehab last November. This time I drive out, not to lick my wounds, but to celebrate Sebby's birthday party in proper form. The theme for the weekend is Peter Pan: pajamas, pirates, tinker bells. Never Never Land in big sky county- perhaps the greatest escape of all time.
3. The cabin that had been so quiet a few months ago, where I sat alone with my pile of books and busily stitched away at my heart, is now wild and loud, overrun with lost boys from Missoula. Their big, laughing, over-sized presence takes up every bunk bed and floor space, crowds into the snowy hot tub in a veil of white steam, falls asleep randomly on couches, circles the kitchen handing out beer and making coffee. They give out back rubs and tell jokes and keep us well fed.

4. The wingmen construct a tinker bell piñata with the head of a doll that's been ripped free of its body. The doll head has a little speaker and laughs like a maniac when you whack it with a boom. There is candy everywhere.

5. This place is, essentially, an exhausting and absurd and slightly insane p-a-r-a-d-i-s-e for a girl who is running away screaming from a dinosaur.

(By the way, the lighting is really tricky.)
4. During the day we ski Big Mountain, and I write a couple of articles in the cafe down town while Lindsey reads a book across from me. Then the evening comes, and it's  off with the layers, the heavy ski boots, on with the pajamas that zip up the front. First we hit the brewery with the cowboys and ski bums; we try to mingle at the bar and keep a straight face. After the third round, we head further down iced-over Main Street to Casey's (only the hottest dance spot in Whitefish).

5. In the middle of the dance floor, I find myself transfixed. There is a woman who is dancing on a pole. She is dressed in black and twisting around and around. She is so beautiful to watch that I forget I am wearing my pajamas.

Eventually she catches me staring at her, and she smiles. She reaches her hand out and pulls me up on the platform with her. Without saying anything, it's too loud to hear anyway, she places my hands where they needs to be, hooks my leg around the pole and gestures for me to spin. Then she steps down and leaves me alone, and this is how I learn how to pole dance as a lost boy.

6. By Sunday morning, the weekend has devolved into sleeping figures curled into sleeping bags and piles of glitter on the floor. I tiptoe around them, searching for my keys, packing up my bag in the early morning silence. I'm back in the car, sliding on thick ice down the long dirt road from the cabin back to the highway, headed towards Missoula and Nici and her girls.
 7. I don't mean to ruin any surprises, but I do end up back in Seattle, and that thing I've been running from gets me. It gets me real good this time.

8. But first, Missoula.


The Pink One: A Love Story

We'd been at sea for four months, give or take a lifetime. The crew planned a midnight galley party on the night we were charted for Dixon Crossing, the rough expanse of open ocean that would take us into Canadian waters. It was The Big One.  We worked all evening to secure the vessel, plate by plate, glass by glass. We tied everything down and tucked away all the wine bottles. In the bridge, the radios squawked warnings of thirteen foot seas. 
The galley party was a costume party. One of the stewards drew up a poster on a piece of cardboard and tacked it up in crew quarters. Best costume gets a prize. A prize! The officers would be the judges and the captain herself would make the final decision.

Because we lived on our ship, the universe Endeavour, the very idea of costumes posed a serious challenge. We had only our stiff blue uniforms to wear, and very few other personal possessions besides that. Any new thing that wound up on the boat was coveted, it didn't matter what it was. Someone once sent me a package with a plastic drinking straw that looped around your eyes like glasses. The crew fought over it and by the end of dinner it was in three pieces.

All this to say: we wanted that prize.
So we docked in Ketchikan, Alaska, and raced into town to hunt for thrift stores until we realized we were in Ketchikan, Alaska and there were no thrift stores. Just overpriced kitch stores for tourists, and that's where I found her, forty dollars steep and pink-beautiful:
Much later that night, after the passengers were sleeping soundly and all the eggs put away, we crept into the galley and we danced. We danced a whole summer's worth of dancing, since this was the first party we'd had after four months of working 15 hour days and nights. We danced like sober sailors who were almost home.

Then we went into The Big One. The floor was rocking back and forth. The waves pounding against the steel bulkheads sounded as loud and hard as waves of splintered ice. We kept dancing. Some times we'd all go crashing against one wall, then slide across the floor and crash into the other wall.

Then the waves got very big indeed, and the ship lost an engine. The captain was on the radio and the engineers went scurrying from the galley to the bridge. We limped into Canadian waters at a pathetic 4 knots, and something was awry with our international papers. The captain and the mates had their hands full. The engineers were down below studying pages and pages of code in their party outfits.

There was no costume judging that night, and there were no prizes.

I felt mega-stiffed. Then the season ended, and the crew parted ways. And I was a lonely soul without them.

Some time later, after I'd lost my sea legs, my wingmen decided to throw a big party at their cabin in Montana. It was Sebby's birthday. The theme of the party was Peter Pan. "Lost boys. Eternal youth," said Ryan over the phone. "Have you any footy pajamas?"

This is when I knew the world was still looking after me.

I told him I was ready. I was ready for confetti. I dug up my Alaskan pink onesie drop seater, threw it in the passenger seat with the dog and we all three hit the road for Montana.

That's the story of how I found the Pink One. But it's not the end.